DIY Wine Glass Stemware Rack

Monday, July 27, 2015


This little DIY wine glass shelf came from a complete lack of storage space in the kitchen and our crazy collection of glasses. I wanted a fun way to display our stemware, and what's better than a stemware shelf? The few wine glass racks I could find that were also shelves were fairly expensive, so I decided to make one myself.  It was fairly easy to make, although it did get me locked out of the house for 2 hours one night. Just make sure you don't do that too. 

Materials:
Stemware rack from Crate and Barrel
Thin sheet of wood (Home Depot will cut it to size for free!)
Paint - Glidden in "Softest Juniper"
4 screws


I started with this unfinished stemware rack from Crate and Barrel and the thinnest piece of wood that I could find at Home Depot. I think it's actually meant to be a bottom of a drawer. Home Depot will cut the wood for free, so I had them cut it to the exact measurements of the shelf. 


I then painted it Glidden's "Softest Juniper" which is a great minty green. Both pieces of the wood were unfinished, so I applied 2 coats and sanded the edges just a bit to give it a worn look. 



Once everything was dry, I used wood glue to attach the top of the shelf to the rack. (This was the day I locked myself out of the house. I recommend you skip that part) 


Once the glue had dried, we measured and marked where the brackets would screw into the shelf. Note - make sure the screws are long enough to go into the wood, but not long enough that they stick out the other side since it will impede the bottom of the glasses from sliding into the racks. 



And that was it! Then we just flipped it over and attached it to the wall. 



I love how this shelf now displays both our stemware as well as our stemless glasses and Kace's beer mugs. It saves cabinet space and is great over a little bar or bar cart. 

Entryway Hat Wall

Wednesday, July 22, 2015

Just a little update today. We have this skinny little wall that you see immediately as you enter our front door. It's a bit of an awkward space, and I wasn't sure what to do with it. But with a few hooks and nails, a handy solution was found! The cowboy hat wall!

I used these hooks from amazon and my husband's collections of cowboy hats to decorate this entryway wall. He's able to easily grab them if he wants to wear one, and they're on display instead of hidden away in the closet. 


Master bedroom update - floors and walls

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

We've finally been able to move back into the master bedroom! The flooring has been installed and the walls are painted. We have a ways to go before this room is finished, but at least we're not camping out in the guest bedroom surrounded by unpacked boxes anymore. The change has been like night and day for this room. What started out as a stuffy, cave like master bedroom now feels open and relaxing. We still need to hang curtains since the sun shines right in that window at 5 am, as well as installing baseboards. But overall, I'm loving how this room is coming along! 


Take a look at what we started with when we moved in:



This room was absolutely filthy when we moved in. The 2 other bedrooms have carpeting and when we got those cleaned, the carpet cleaners took one look at the master and basically said "yeah, we're not even going to clean this, you need to rip it out". Which was fine by me! We decided to go with medium/dark wood look laminate flooring instead of hardwood since we have a large dog and the laminate should hold up better and not get scratched like wood floors. They look great so far! 

We also changed the walls from the dark green cavelike atmosphere to Benjamin Moore's White Dove to open up the room a bit. It's crazy what a little paint and new flooring can do for a room. I'm just proud that we actually did something with the master bedroom. In our last place, we hated how the room looked but never bothered to change anything about it. I'm discovering how nice it is to come home after work to a place where you feel really comfortable and happy. It's such a mood changer. Next steps - decorating! 


DIY Rustic Wooden Headboard

Thursday, July 2, 2015


I don't know about you, but I've completely fallen in love with all those rustic headboards on Pinterest. However, having moved from the land of barns to the land of cacti I no longer have access to any perfectly weathered gray barn boards to make said projects. Enter the cedar fence slats. They're light, the perfect thickness, and easily cut down to size by your handy Home Depot or Lowe's worker if you don't own a saw.

Materials for a queen size bed:
6 cedar fence slats from Home Depot - have them cut to 63" long
2 two by fours for the legs - have them cut to 48" long
1 one by four cut to 32 inches for the center brace (or 1 inch shorter than the total height of the boards)
nails
wood glue 
Minwax Water Based Pre Stain Wood Conditioner
Minwax Water Based Stain in Toffee
Ploycrylic Protective Finish
Rags for wiping stain on and off
Paint/foam brushes



 Start with the boards cut to the size you need. For a queen size bed, the length of my boards was 63 inches. We sanded them all down to remove any splinters. This can either take a few minutes if you have an electric hand sander, or a few weeks if your husband won't let you buy one and promises to sand them all himself and then keeps forgetting. Ahem. Once (eventually) sanded I took a hammer to some of boards to give them that beaten, weathered look you just don't get from new cuts of lumber.

Note - the boards I used are cedar fence slats. Cedar smells. I happen to love the scent of cedar but if you don't, you might want to think about using a different type of wood. It's been in our house for 6 months now and every time you enter the room you can still detect a faint woodsy cedar smell. Like I said, I love it because it makes me think of forests and the outdoors. But it doesn't go away quickly, so make sure you're ok with that!


I used a water based stain for this project since I have an irrational fear of mineral spirits and don't want to use it to clean up regular wood stain. Minwax has a water based stain that comes as a clear tint and you add the color like you would a regular can of paint. I think it worked great and I had no trouble using it. I used the Pre-Stain Wood conditioner on the wood first to give it an even finish. I didn't use this on the headboard legs since they wouldn't be seen, and you can definitely tell the difference between the boards where I used the pre-stain and where I didn't. The boards had a much cleaner and even coloration when I used the conditioner first. 


I used 2 coats front and back of the "Toffee" color. After everything dried I finished it with a topcoat of Ploycrylic to protect and seal everything. Stain the slats and the 2 boards for the legs. I also stained the center brace because why not? This was my first time staining anything and I just followed the instructions on the cans. It worked beautifully.


Once everything dries it's time to assemble. Lay the boards out how you want them to go. Mine didn't line up perfectly, but I liked the warping and thought it added character. If you want yours to lay perfectly, check how the boards fit at the store before you buy them. 

Once everything is lined up, flip each of the boards over so the back of the headboard is facing up. Run a line of wood glue along the center brace and place perpendicular to the slats in the center of the board. Stack something heavy on top to weigh it down until the glue dries. See the photo below? The brace is under the middle bag of charcoal. My husband we have a lot of charcoal. Also, random dumbbells. 


Here's where it gets tricky. I wanted to nail the boards to the legs from the front so I could line up the nail heads. To do that, before I flipped the board back over, I lined up the legs and marked with chalk where I wanted the lowest board to land and made sure everything was level. Then I turned the whole thing over and slid the legs underneath, lining up the lowest board with the chalk marks. 

Note - I measured my bed frame and figured out exactly how far apart the holes were to screw in a headboard. If you don't want to screw the board directly to your frame, it's less important where the legs of the headboard go. 


Once I had the boards lined up, I nailed each of them to both the legs and the center brace. Then all that's left to do is screw it into the bed frame or attach it to the wall!


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